At this year’s Cornucopia, the session Mother Nature vs. Okanagan Wineries: A Climate Conundrum provided a powerful look into the ways wineries are wrestling with climate change. Hosted by Jeff and Decoa Harder, founders of Ex Nihilo Winery, this event shed light on the stark realities that winemakers in the Okanagan—and beyond—are facing. They drew on their decades of experience managing vineyards and navigating unpredictable conditions to discuss the urgent challenges and solutions that growers and producers are adopting to survive in this ever-evolving climate landscape.
Across the globe, wineries are innovating to address environmental challenges. In France, vineyards have turned to lighting candles to warm the air around vines to stave off frostbite during cold snaps. Forest fires have become alarmingly common in places like Sonoma and the Okanagan Valley, threatening both the land and the quality of grapes. Meanwhile, flash floods and sometimes cyclones devastate regions in minutes, reminding us of the volatility that climate change brings to traditional agricultural practices. And farmers rely on nature for their bounty. The Harders detailed how these phenomena have disrupted the wine industry worldwide and how Okanagan wineries, which faced catastrophic crop losses two years in a row, are finding ways to protect their harvests and livelihoods.
The Okanagan’s 2024 winter event, a drastic freeze that reduced grape production by up to 99%, illustrated the economic and environmental toll of extreme weather on winemakers. BC’s wine industry alone stands to lose millions, and similar struggles resonate with growers worldwide. Listening to the Harders’ insights, I felt hopeful yet cautious: while innovative techniques are helping to protect vineyards, there’s an undeniable urgency to protect our environment. Together, the wine industry and consumers must foster a commitment to sustainable practices that support Mother Nature and secure the future of viticulture.
As we raise a glass to the holiday season, let’s also toast to protecting the earth that provides for us. Supporting wineries that prioritize sustainability is a meaningful way to enjoy the fruits of nature’s bounty while acknowledging the hard work it takes to protect it.
