Last year when I went to Whistler Cornucopia, I was deeply affected by a talk about climate change affecting the local wine industry in 2024. The Okanagan’s 2024 winter event, a drastic freeze that reduced grape production by up to 99%, illustrated the economic and environmental toll of extreme weather on winemakers. Many wineries across the world had to navigate unpredictable conditions due to climate change. In France, vineyards have turned to lighting candles to warm the air around vines to stave off frostbite during cold snaps. Forest fires have become common in places like Sonoma and the Okanagan Valley, and other regions experience flash floods and cyclones.
BC’s wine industry alone stands to lose millions, but the event, Roots and Resilience, showed me the innovation and creativity of wineries across BC. Every winemaker told a different story of their resilience and creativity. One winemaker told me that they use fans to warm up the air if their winery is flat, and another method is to aim the fans into a lake when it is cold, so that the lake releases warm air. This evening inspired me by being able to see what’s possible when we embrace change together, and that each winemaker is staying true to these values: quality, passion and a deep connection to land.
The evening was a magnificent sit-down dinner with the winemakers at Brix and Mortar last night, with a selection of Gray Monk, Tinhorn Creek, Sandhill, Black Hills, and Red Rooster wines to pair with each course.
The amuse bouche was a barley risotto with pickled mushrooms and seared scallop, paired with Grey Monk’s Pinot Gris Washington 2024. The Pinot Gris was my favourite out of all of the wines. Its crispness made me imagine myself in a meadow, sitting on a picnic blanket with it, eating fruit and cheese. It is clear and bright, and on the nose, the wine shows ripe orchard fruit aromas with a subtle note of citrus. It has a medium and smooth body with an off-dry style. There is a touch of spice and minerality that lingers on the finish.
The first course was a chilled prawn cocktail with chili lime vinaigrette and wasabi crème fraiche, paired with Tinhorn Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2024. This Sauvignon Blanc opens with lively aromas of citrus zest, ripe tropical fruits, and a subtle touch of fresh herbs. On the palate, its bright acidity highlights flavours of lemon, green apple, and passionfruit, culminating in a crisp, dry finish with a refreshing mineral edge.
The second course was my favourite: buttermilk fried chicken in a white BBQ sauce and smoked chili butter. This was paired beautifully with Sandhill Small Lots Viognier Washington 2024. This Viognier exhibits delightful aromas of white peach, yellow apple, and golden plums with subtle notes of honeysuckle and white floral. This medium bodied wine has a smooth yet refreshing mouthfeel.
The third course was a yarrow meadow duck breast, which was dressed with a Jamaican Jerk spice with a Kolrabi remoulade and whipped coconut bourbon candied yam. It was paired with Black Hills Bona Fide Oregon 2024. Vibrant and expressive, bursting with layers of blackberry, red plum, and wild raspberry. The fruit shows remarkable generosity and depth, lifted by subtle notes of peppercorn and anise. Fine, elegant tannins lend structure and finesse.
The dessert was one of my favourites also. It was a trio of petit fours, paired with Tinhorn Creek Rosé Washington 2024. This vibrant rosé showcases bright red berry aromas, including strawberry and raspberry, with subtle hints of watermelon and floral notes. On the palate, juicy flavours of cherry and cranberry are complemented by refreshing acidity and a crisp, clean finish.
I was so grateful to celebrate wines crafted in B.C. and I raise my glass with everyone who is cheering on these wineries for their innovation and resilience in the face of climate change.
